Following is the text of my artcile in the October issue of Touchdown magazine which is the official magazine of  Mumbai Airport. The article will be  reprinted in Spice Jet’s magazine – Spice Route. The lead picture and subject matter expertise have been shared by Nitin Gera.

Two things essential for surviving lesser travelled paths are toilet roll and GPS. The former being self-explanatory let’s understand the need for the latter i.e. GPS – Global Positioning System. It is a satellite based navigation and positioning tool that can be used in vehicles and also as a handheld device. This technology, though originally developed for military applications, is widely utilized by adventurous travellers to stay aware of their whereabouts and also find directions.

Currently GPS is the world’s only fully-functional navigation system with global coverage, developed and maintained by US Department of Defense. Anybody with a device capable of receiving GPS signals and suitable software can access this network of satellites without having to pay for setup or subscription. A GPS receiver times messages sent continually by GPS satellites to compute its distance from at least four satellites. This data and each satellite’s location are used to compute position of the receiver which is then displayed on a moving map. The real-time nature of this process allows interactive navigation along roads and even when there are no roads.

The available navigation solutions can broadly be classified by the way they handle navigation. Those based on a preloaded database of roadmaps do “route calculation” giving directions from one position to another; while others allow you to follow predefined tracks providing “track navigation.”

Route Calculation

It was 2200hrs. We had been driving from the western edge of Gujarat and were still about 200kms from the night halt at Barmer in Rajasthan. Without going into the need for such an ambitious drive let me just emphasize that we were keenly looking for shortcuts. National Highway 15, though a smooth tarmac, was a longer route with heavy truck traffic. In our GPS we changed the route calculation algorithm from “faster route” to “shorter route.” The software came up with a detour from a point where the highway drifted further into an extended “U” till Suigam and put us on a straight line to the town, reducing the distance by more than half.

However the night’s sleep was not to be earned so easily. Somewhere midway the road vanished. There was a mound of earth ahead of us and a JCB loader parked besides. Refusing to retrace our path to the highway we consulted the preloaded Google maps on our GPS. Zooming in several levels of detail we saw an alternative road through a village little off the road. With the confidence of this knowledge and guidance from the villagers we were back on track and on an even smoother road to Suigam.

That was just one of the instances when we had to rely on GPS to reduce travel time or avoid bad or even broken roads. Once on the way to Kausani the state highway ahead of Bhowali to Almora was broken due to landslides and we found a detour through Ramgarh. The return journey became even more pleasant than the original route could’ve been as we took yet another detour through Ranikhet, driving past idyllic hamlets of Uttarakhand with a backdrop of Trishul and its neighbouring peaks.

Such driving directions can be easily accessed through dedicated devices, GPS-enabled smart phones, PDAs and laptops. Popular manufacturers such as TomTom, Garmin, Magellan, MapmyIndia and SatGuide produce a variety of standalone devices and software. Typically such systems show interactive maps with points of interest such as landmarks, fuel stations, banks etc, and give step-by-step routing direction to the selected destination often through voice guidance. The latest products for cars come with usability features such as touch screen GO LIVE by TomTom and nüvi by Garmin, while RoadMate by Magellan also flaunts a 7 inch widescreen display. MapmyIndia and SatGuide offer a range of in-car navi-tainment devices. Some high-end cars are packaged with inbuilt or retrofitted systems. Dedicated devices designed for motorcycles such as zūmo by Garmin and Rider Pro by TomTom have features like glove-friendly interface that ensure ease of use while riding.

Besides the ones developed specifically for use in automobiles, a wide range of handheld devices are also available. These are suited for outdoor activities such as hiking, though these can be used in vehicles as well by using a simple mount. Magellan offers eXplorist and Triton models and Garmin has Oregon, GPSMAP, Dakota, and eTrex series of handheld GPS.

Many developers also create software that can be run on GPS enabled phones and PDAs. Google maps and Garmin Mobile XT work with smartphones and Pocket PCs, while Nokia offers its own mapping solution – Ovi Maps. There are software available for laptops too, these alongside a GPS receiver can be used to navigate, such as Garmin Mobile PC and Microsoft Streets & Trips.

A traveller has a multitude of options to choose as per personal preference. Many people rely on a combination of gadgets, software, and also printed maps for backup. Besides sometimes it is better to roll the windows down, hail someone and ask directions, even if it is just to verify.

Track Navigation

The other usage of GPS is to follow a track. A track is a record of actual path that you take, often described as a “breadcrumb trail.” GPS devices can be set to record a track as you go. A recorded track can then be retraced. This kind of navigation is used in activities like trekking, bicycle touring, and off-roading. Navigation tracking software show a track as a line superimposed on a map and your current position as an arrowhead. Navigation then is as simple as moving in such a way that the arrowhead follows the line on the screen.

Internet is a good resource for sharing and searching GPS tracks. A device independent GPS exchange format, .gpx is commonly used to upload tracks which can be installed on most of the devices. These tracks become a lifeline during extreme excursions such as trekking through the Himalayas or off-roading in Thar desert.

Driving through the Rann of Kutch, for the sheer pleasure of being one with the serene vastness, is unimaginable without a known trail. Though a mere compass and traditional celestial navigation methods such as following the sun or other stars and constellations can ensure that you are not completely disoriented, but being surrounded by nothing but flatland till the visible horizon without any clues for the right way forward is an uncomfortable feeling.

There was a time when we were smitten by a sunrise over the White Rann and walked deep into it and lost sight of the BSF watchtower at the entry checkpoint. We could allow ourselves to get lured into white-out because our GPS was recording our trail and we knew that to wake up we would just have to backtrack to our campsite.

We could get similarly adventurous while moving along a desert rally convoy, following the tracks which had been prepared after weeks of recce by the organizers. We were using OziExplorer, a popular mapping software for Windows, with a Bluetooth connected GPS receiver for positioning. An obvious benefit of using a laptop for navigation is the larger screen area, besides this software allows greater control over editing the track. Obediently following the twisting line on the screen we moved through sandy tracks, riverbeds, and narrow patches lined with bushes. Waypoints had been placed along the track marking check points. It is an important feature that allows locations to be stored as you move along a track. Waypoints can be used to ensure safe passage around obstacles or implemented as “Points of Interest” i.e. any location of interest such as a heritage site or of certain use such as a fuel station.

In such ways GPS navigation makes outdoor adventures safer and driving around roads convenient. Up-to-date maps and strong GPS receivers can provide precise and elaborate information in a portable package. This can be achieved by keeping maps updated and staying aware of newer and improved gadgets which are regularly being manufactured to keep up with increasing demand of GPS solutions.

The ability to interact with maps and their level of details enhance our understanding of the places we visit. Besides, local knowledge and sharing of experiences amongst other travellers prepares you for an enriching and enjoyable experience. In most of my travels GPS has helped in making the journey better, roads or no roads.

Indian Regional Navigational Satellite System – IRNSS

Indian counterpart of US DoD’s GPS is being developed by Indian Space Research Organisation, ISRO. It is envisaged to provide satellite based communication and navigation systems for rural connectivity, security needs and mobile services. The first of the seven satellites planned for the system is planned to be launched by the end of 2011. Once completed IRNSS will provide coverage of Indian landmass and about 1500km around it in all weather and at all times. Various other regional and global navigation systems are being developed around the world. European Union is developing Galileo while People’s Republic of China is expanding its regional system Beidou into global COMPASS. Russia is restoring its once functional GLONASS.

Geocaching

Geocaching is an outdoor activity similar to a treasure hunt using a GPS or other navigation methods. The participants, called geocachers “hide” a geocache and then share its location on an online community which allows other participants to go out and “seek” it. It makes this activity a game of hi-tech hide-and-seek. A geocache contains a logsheet which finders use to note their details. Various knick-knacks can also be placed which the visitors can trade with something of their own. Geocaching has been active since a decade and there are millions of geocaches and participants worldwide.

Geotagging

Geotagging is adding of geographic identification metadata to photographs and videos. Some cameras are equipped with built-in GPS and some support an external GPS. This allows for a smarter organization of personal photographs. Geotagged photos when uploaded on online sharing communities can be placed on a map depicting the location where they were taken.

Bowled by Travel

It’s 2 am and the hotel lobby is busy as most members of the team are leaving for their early morning homeward flights. The last match of the tournament got over barely a couple of hours ago. The three month long league had them travelling from one state to another for back-to-back matches. The eagerness to be home is obvious. Another tournament begins in a few days, followed by another, and then yet another, and so goes the cricket calendar.

Travel : Perk or Curse

Originating as village cricket, spreading internationally through test match format, evolving into One-dayers and then Twenty20, the sport has come a long way from being a leisurely diversion to a challenging and lucrative career. In the 19th century, touring teams had to undertake long and wearying sea voyages but now cricketers are frequent flyers, trotting the globe for a slew of international and national matches which happen round the year. Cricket nowadays is a travel intensive profession. Some consider this aspect a perk while for others it is a downside.

Reminiscing about an English summer spent exploring the countryside, Aakash Chopra feels thankful to his profession: “I’ve been to such beautiful places that I would’ve never visited otherwise.” In much of a contrast, Irfan Pathan, when asked if he is fond of travelling, promptly denies the scope for leisurely travel: “There is no time, I am very busy with practice sessions,” he says. For a player coping with pressure from critics and fans, and trying to make a comeback to the national side, travel is not a priority. And for those playing at the top level, every action attracts too much public attention. Fans and media were as awed as disapproving of Sachin Tendulkar, Yuvraj Singh, Harbhajan Singh, Zaheer Khan and VVS Laxman doing a daring Sky Walk atop the Auckland Sky Tower.

Celebrity status makes it difficult for cricketers to move freely, especially in our cricket crazy country, dissuading most of them to venture beyond hotels or certain upmarket locations. In such a limited circle and with busy schedules, fellow cricketers, support staff, associates of the host team, and even journalists following the tournament become travel companions and the windows to local culture. The experience might be limited to tasting the local cuisine and buying souvenirs, or foster lifelong friendships amongst multicultural people. Having stayed in Delhi for a tournament, South African Morne Morkel didn’t just develop a taste for Punjabi cuisine (read Butter Chicken), but also picked a little bit of Hindi, something which Australian David Warner also loves to flaunt with phrases like “thik hai,” “bahut achcha,” and “chalo chalain.”

Incredible India

India dominates the cricket circuit. Many international players are attracted to the country’s vibrant culture. Here for the World Cup, South Africans Wayne Parnell and Hashim Amla squeezed in a visit to Agra. Parnell confessed being charmed by the romantic history of Taj Mahal. While a group of international players from Rajasthan Royals IPL team arrived a week before the tournament to spend time in the City of Lakes – Udaipur, almost everyone was treated to the grandeur of the City Palace in Jaipur.

Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh has also emerged as a favourite by virtue of its stadium which has seen quite a few international visitors. The ground with the backdrop of Dhauladhar mountain ranges and vividly painted stands is pitched as the most picturesque ground in India. Many players take time out to explore the hill station. A day’s trek to Triund and further to the snowline is popular amongst the cricketers.

While a stadium above 4000 ft is unique, all venues spread across the country inherit the distinctive flavour of each region, creating a nationwide playing field which is as diverse as India is known to be. Every year hundreds of domestic players travel through the country for various interstate and interregional matches, from the hubs in Chennai and Bengaluru, to metros of Mumbai and Ahmedabad, to historic cities of Gwalior and Lucknow, to apparent remoteness of Guwahati and Agartala, and to carnival capital of Goa.

The domestic circuit can take players around the nation in just one season. Says Venugopal Rao, “Each place has something special about it and I try to experience such aspects, be it sight-seeing or local culture.” Travel enthusiasts like him make excursions even though it takes a lot of willpower to find time amidst the chaotic tours.

The schedule for Ranji Trophy gives players just three days between matches including a day of travelling between venues which could be too far-off and without any direct connectivity. Sridharan Sriram recounts one such incident of a harrowing journey from Silchar to Jamshedpur with a few of his teammates. Their bus to Guwahati broke down midway and they had to hitch a ride in a lorry. After a 12 hour long road trip, while suffering from nausea, they barely managed the flight to Kolkata and the subsequent train, to finally arrive in Jamshedpur.

However the schedule was not so busy till some years ago. Aakash Chopra recalls being invited to a traditional wedding in Siliguri. The visiting team savoured warm hospitality even while the temperature was freezing. During the same trip he had relied on a borrowed film-camera which a local had gladly lent. The person also took the trouble to develop the roll and mailed pictures to Aakash’s home.

Anil Kumble was initiated into a lifelong passion for travel and photography when his brother gave him a basic camera for his under-17 trip to Srinagar. He has published a book of his photographs of people, places, wild life, and candid moments captured while touring with the national squad. He would take every opportunity to explore the host country, with teammates or at times alone. In a great career he has amassed not just wickets but also memoirs from whole of the cricketing world.

English Summers

Besides international tours, many professionals play for England’s various clubs, leagues, and counties. For a player contracted for the six month long season there are plenty of options for excursions. Almost everyone explores the famed landscapes of Scotland and its fairytale castles. A venue for the British Open, the Old Course at St Andrews is also a favourite. Sridharan Sriram lists all the usual sightseeing points from Scottish lochs of Loch Lomond and Loch Ness to the Lake District, his favourite being Wastwater which flaunts England’s deepest lake, highest peak, and perhaps the smallest church. It could be due to the charm of English Summer or perhaps the prospect of moving around with fewer bodyguards, that Sachin Tendulkar has been spending summers in his house near Lord’s, “the Home of Cricket”. Since the last few years he has been a regular at Wimbledon’s Royal Box.

Down Under

Australia’s cricket centres, Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne, Adelaide, and Perth, provide forks into heady urban pleasures and outdoorsy pursuits. However, indulging in coastal adventures is a must-do for all. Venugopal Rao vividly describes its coral islands and snorkelling into the multicoloured aquatic life underneath. He was there with his India-A teammates during the Top End Series of 2006.

Middle Earth

In New Zealand, Sridharan Sriram explored the whole of the North Island while playing for one league. He has an exhaustive list of wonders of New Zealand, off which he picks the geothermal field of Rotorua for exceptional views of skyrocketing geysers and boiling mud pools. The untamed beauty of NZ inspired the touring Indian cricket team to indulge in some adrenaline pumping activities after winning the 2009 ODI series against the hosts. While one group did the Sky Walk, Rahul Dravid took a sailing trip in Auckland.

Wildlife Safari

In 2009, India took IPL to South Africa and along with it, hordes of tourists . Soon many of the visiting cricketers updated their Facebook profile pictures to those with big cats in the frame. In Cape Town, the Table Mountain draws almost everyone who comes to Newlands to watch or play cricket. In fact, South African speedster Dale Steyn has earned a reputation as an adventurist, after he accidentally caught a crocodile while fishing near the Zimbabwean border. This was during a break from 2009 Test Series with Australia.

Caribbean Carnival

Most of those who’ve toured West Indies pick St Lucia as “prettiest of them all” amongst the numerous pristine and gentle beaches. Aakash Chopra affirms, having visited almost all islands during an India A tour. Sridharan Sriram recommends St Kitts and Nevis as well.

No Off-season

Harbhajan Singh, when asked about the tour that he looks forward to, replies — “Going Home” — a candid response from someone who is on the road for most part of the year. Being away from home affects even the most wanderlust struck of the lot. Venugopal Rao begins excitedly as he says: “I return home with a lot of stories to tell my folks. I am glad that my job allows me to travel so much. But, I do miss my family.”

Indeed, cricket can take players round the world, multiple times over. How much a person enjoys the travel is more a function of inclination than itinerary.

travel takes

Three footloose cricketers share their travel philosophy

Venugopal Rao

A bankable India allrounder, he was the star performer for Delhi Daredevils in the latest IPL season. He mostly travels solo or with friends in the place he would be visiting, but rarely with his kith and kin. “I firmly believe that one should travel with likeminded people,” he says. A rolling stone of a traveller he doesn’t even bother to take photographs. “My parents think it is strange that I visit so many unique places but don’t take pictures. I somehow never feel the urge to capture moments as photographs,” he signs off.

Sridharan Sriram

Known for his prolific run making in premier domestic tournaments, Sriram’s approach to travel is equally extensive. “Travel imparts a world view and puts our own lives in perspective. Otherwise we would stay confined to our daily routine like frogs inside a well, oblivious to the outside world,” he offers. He believes that travel is as much about a person’s own growth as it is about the people one meets along the way. “Most of the good friends I’ve made, have been in dressing rooms across the world,” he says.

Aakash Chopra

His unbeaten triple century was a highpoint in Rajasthan’s Ranji Trophy win this year. While playing for the state Aakash made sure to explore all its places. He says, “Travelling helps us open ourselves to new experiences. Travel improves our judgement of people.”

Spiti travelogue in Air India's inflight magazine

Our travelogue to Spiti in Himachal Pradesh has been published in the July issue of Air India’s inflight magazine.

Surreal Solitude

Spiti: haven in the Himalayas

words: Priyanka and photos: Nitin Gera

At 14,000ft while strong winds threaten to sweep you off your feet, the beauty of the crescent shaped Chandratal Lake does just that. Chandrabhaga range in the backdrop and surrounding scree seem like an amphitheatre where the pristine lake displays its myriad shades of blue for a rare audience of shepherds or trekkers. Visual extravaganza and tranquillity reach a crescendo in the secluded land of Spiti.

Spiti is in the Trans-Himalayan region of Himachal Pradesh with an average altitude of 10,000ft making it a cold desert. The valley can be accessed from Kullu in the west or Kinnaur district in the South. The route from Manali goes through Rohtang Pass, enters Lahaul and moves upstream along Chandra River to Kunzum Pass, the gateway to Spiti valley. Three Chortens and a Goddess Durga temple mark the crest of the pass. A well-wishing signboard suggests that travellers should circumambulate the shrine before proceeding further. Faith soars high in the lap of majestically rugged mountains.

From Kinnaur, the route via Rampur is like a staircase epitomized by hair pin bends of Kazig loops. This is almost an all-weather road yet gets closed during heavy snowfall. Harsh weather and mountainous territory has given Spiti an introverted character. Several small villages, where population rarely reaches three-figures, are strewn along Spiti River. The Spitians work hard through summers, cultivating barley, maize, wheat, potatoes, or peas, and preparing for a long period of hibernation. In winters the valley lays still under thick layers of snow. People spend most of their time indoors and taking care of livestock.

Facilities like education, medicine, banking, and electricity have reached remote regions but are scarce. The administrative headquarter, Kaza is the hub of activity, especially during summers when tourists arrive here to head out for tours around the valley. Many villages have private family-run guesthouses besides PWD and HPTDC accommodation options.

Physical and cultural vicinity to Tibet reflects in the architectural style of homes and monasteries perched atop hillocks. The region has a few of the highest motorable villages in the world. Kibber village strikes an irony to the barren landscape with its abundant fields at an altitude of 14,200ft. An even higher village, Langza, is known for its fossil reserves.

Life in Spiti is religiously anchored to its various Gompas. The largest of these is Kye monastery, about 12kms from Kaza. The structure is built along a tapering hill in no particular order, with numerous chambers connected through dark and narrow passages. Besides the usual treasure of Thangkas, murals, and scriptures, it also houses a collection of ancient weapons which could’ve been used to uphold protection or power.

Dhankar monastery is at the erstwhile capital of Spiti kingdom. It is built as a fort at the edge of a cliff offering a vantage point of the surrounding valley. Further downstream, Tabo is an ancient monastery dating back to the 10th century. Numerous shrines inside the complex hold a treasure of invaluable murals, vigilantly protected by the shrine administration. As faith runs deep, aspiration to be nearer to God and farther from danger reaches a summit with Komic monastery at 15,000ft.

The religious imagery reflects significant elements of the region, such as the mystical Snow Leopard. The evasive cat and Siberian Ibex can be found in the Pin Valley National park, which is connected to the rest of Spiti through a narrow gorge as Pin River forces its way out of the sanctuary.

Spiti valley provides a haven in the rain shadow of Greater Himalayas for those who inhabit it and those who are drawn into its surreal enchantment.

Here is the write-up which the Tehelka Hindi’s adept desk has translated:

Travelogue on Bateshwar in Tehelka Hindi

A series of ancient temples trace the crescent embankment along river Yamuna. Some of the shrines have been crudely whitewashed while most of the complex has been abandoned to nature. Without any elaborate architecture or features distinguishing one from another, the temples seem to have been cloned, each with its own stairway to the river. The morning sun reflects this panorama in Yamuna which is in such bounty as is unseen by us Delhi dwellers. Even the nearby wonder, Taj Mahal, doesn’t possess such a mirror.

We didn’t expect to reach such a tranquil place when we left the Delhi-Kanpur highway at Shikohabad in search of Bateshwar, a small temple-village in the mysterious Chambal valley. A railway crossing just off NH2 had been cramped with characteristic rural Uttar Pradesh activity. Some cyclists were trying to cross the barrier and those who had stopped were making small talk amongst themselves or with the signalman. A few hawkers were looking for sales opportunities in the paused traffic of mostly two-wheelers, except for a pushcart and our four-wheel drive. The black SUV and its dark-glass-wearing occupants kept the folks amused.

The level crossing sems like a gateway to the valley infamous for dacoits. Soon we are on a zigzag road through ravines. The state forest department maintains these roads for a modest toll of Rs10 at the end of a bridge over Yamuna. We ask for directions to Bateshwar. Once in the village it isn’t difficult to locate the temple complex.

In the parking area a priest is breaking a coconut in front of a new car while its owner, and his kin, all gathered around, prayed for auspiciousness. The area is big enough to cater to the rush that gathers here during the annual fair in October-November. But today there aren’t any other devotees. Vendors and priests receive us with alacrity. Within moments we’ve been taken over by an elderly Panditji and following his guidelines to worship the presiding deity Bateshwar Mahadev i.e. Lord Shiva while a group of junior priests provide chorus for the aarti.

Panditji then takes us on a guided tour of the temple complex. It is believed that there were 108 temples of various Hindu deities. Less than half of these stand today, mostly in ruins. Regular prayers are offered at a couple of temples including a Jain temple. Bateshwar is also a Jain pilgrimage by virtue of being tirthankar Neminath’s birthplace.

We cross a courtyard where numerous bells of varying sizes are hanging. These are tokens of gratitude by revisiting devotees whose prayers have been answered by the ever generous Bholenath. Pridefuly Panditji informs us that one of these bells was offered the ex-Prime Minister of India Sh. Atal Bihari Vajpayee.

The adjoining temple has quaint idols of Shiva and Parvati. Shiva has been depicted with moustaches and wearing dhoti, angrakha, and pagdi, making the supreme ascetic appear like a Marwari merchant. Goddess Parvati has been rendered in full shringaar that local married ladies wear for auspiciousness. Panditji has been working hard at earning dakshina and keeps elucidating the various ways and benefits of worshiping each deity, Ganesha, Kartikrya, and so on. Reaching an idol of the Sun God he says “inki bhi puja kar lo, isse bhi kuch faayda zaroor hoga.” We realize that he has run out of commentary and we of politeness and patience. We part ways with Panditji, after a hefty dakshina, and venture ahead through the chain of shrines to find our God ourselves in self exploration and peace.

We reach the last temple and go down the stairs to the ghat. A large number of turtles have gathered near the bank waiting to be fed rice puffs by devotees. It is a happy sight because turtles which were once in plenty in Yamuna have vanished from most of its parts and can only be found in places like Bateshwar that offer them a religious sanctuary. The Chambal River that meets Yamuna downstream from Bateshwar, hosts eight rare species of turtles out of the 26 found in India.

This region falls in the National Chambal sanctuary which is home to 320 resident and migratory birds. A few of them give us company. Herons, egrets, and ducks float in the river. A couple of Brahminy Kites swoop across. An Indian Roller is picking insects from the ground. A caravan of camels is crossing the river. A bunch of boys is frolicking in shallow water nearby. A few people are washing clothes and bathing, including few of the numerous Naga Sadhus who live in the ravines.

The entire gamut of life in the Chambal valley seems to be on display at the riverfront in the morning. But as the day gets warmer everyone leaves for cooler quarters and so do we.

On our way-out we stop at a few shops in the village. No fancy outlets, no shops selling souvenirs, just a few tea-shops with limited supply of cold drinks. Mineral water bottles are unheard of. The villagers scan us with curious looks questioning our motives. Oblivious to the serene beauty of their temple town they wonder what could interest us urban people. Tourism industry hasn’t yet invaded their languid lives.

We linger, roaming through the mysterious ravines and pausing at a few quaint mud cliffs and visualizing dacoits rampaging through the valley, and reluctantly get back on the road to the civilization where we belong.

The point is that you can never tell why, until you actually do such things.

Take for example Desert Storm, Maruti Suzuki’s annual rally which is being pitched as the ‘ultimate adventure.’ I am in the middle of this storm and have managed to find my moment of its having my moment of contemplation amidst the mad rush.

After six days into the rally and 3000kms, I’ve lost track of day and date. All I can tell you is which leg, stage, and instruction point I am at – just out of Leg3, SS4 – Mad Max and on the way to next night halt at Phalodi. Or call it just a halt because the convoy won’t reach before early morning. I doubt if anyone is in a hurry. Who wants to hit the sack when there are friends around to party – in a vast hall with desert floor and a star laden roof. No last calls as there are no gates to close. No volume control because there is no one around for miles whose sleep we can disturb, except our own.

So what if we have been sleeping for barely 2-3 hours since few days.

If the participants are mad to put themselves through the gruelling saga year after year, then the officials are even madder. We advance through the stages and come out after sweeping the ones left behind. And, there are always a couple of cars that get lost, or breakdown and have to be found and put back on track.

I can see some signs of people reluctantly getting back into their cars and on to the radio waves. The party will now continue on the way through radio-com, and of course all cars have to be tracked and convoy maintained.

Everyone roger, rolling.

PS: Adventure has just begun…

We pulled over to watch a tornado. At a little distance from the highway a column of sand was spiralling up. Vehicles were speeding past us thoroughly exploiting the smooth tarmac of Rajasthan. The setting seemed to be precursor to the action that was up next. We were on our way to experience a manmade storm in the desert.

We had preceded the Desert Storm to Bikaner. The rally cars were to undertake extreme dune bashing the next day.

Twister, a Never Ending Saga

It was a long day in sun and sand, sans the beach. We joined the official convoy before dawn and proceeded to the park ferme at Seruna. Once everyone had refilled caffeine and GPS tracks the caravan moved into the desert. A 54Km track had been charted through sand dunes around Punrasar village. The day was quite an occasion for the villagers who had been roped in as volunteers. They watched our cars in anticipation and so did their goats, hens, and peacocks, as we moved through the circuit setting up check posts. We were placed at the timecard stamping point. It allowed us to experience the complete stage before it was stormed.

By 10:30AM the stage was live and we had positioned ourselves at vantage points to capture the rally action. We waited patiently…

Sitting in the desert sun
We were sitting when overhead the sun come
Watching the camel-carts roll in
And we watched ‘em roll away again

Sitting at the top of the dune
Watching the sands roll away
We were just sitting on the top of the dune
Nah, not wasting time…

Sitting at the top of the dune we waited, heard Otis Redding, and Coldplay, Dj Tiesto, Deep Forest, and Mettalica. We discussed the distant huts, vultures, jackals, deers, blackbucks, and water bottles, while waiting for a certain roaring sound. Then we heard it, after a couple of hours had passed.

We jumped to action as soon as we saw two bikers moving in tandem. Then there were more bikes.

We wondered how bikers follow GPS navigators while moving through desert at such speeds. Most of the bikers were exhausted by the time they reached finish.

Next to arrive were Gypsys from the Extreme level, followed by SUVs competing in the Endure category. The radios were relaying instructions as the officials at checkpoints kept track of the vehicles. At a point a Gypsy overturned and was later rescued by a dozen men from the village and towed out with a tractor.

Tractors had to be called-in for several other cars which gave up in sand. Besides ethics, this was just one of the benefits of involving local people as volunteers.

By afternoon the first stage for the day, aptly named as “Twister” was over. But the saga continued into the third leg of the rally which had mostly the same track as Twister but with additional, gruelling 20Kms. The day’s proceedings lasted beyond sundown. By then we had seen top ranked Indian rallyists in action, we had realized the speed, teamwork, and precision with which organizers from Northern Motorsports were functioning, and as a bonus, we had experienced desert like never before in any of our trips to Rajasthan.

Photographs by: Nitin Gera

Travelogue on Bateshwar in Hindustan Times

This is my travelogue on Bateshwar in the Sunday edition of Hindustan Times. Text is accompanied with photographs by Nitin Gera.

My travelogue on Khabha - Jaisalmer, in Hindustan Times

Spiti valley

I’ve recently returned from my annual pilgrimage to the trans-Himalayan region. I call this travel a pilgrimage because it has a similar purifying and enlightening effect on me. I see the crossing of the great Himalayan barrier via Rohtang Pass as a metaphor for rising above something within – the pile of residue of routine life. The real journey begins from here.

The vista changes drastically, from lush to barren, as you move to the other side of Rohtang and enter Lahaul valley. This cold desert is fertile with awe-inspiring sights handcrafted by forces of nature. Every year I try to explore a different section of this exhibition. This year I did the Spiti loop. From Gramphu in Lahual valley we traveled via Chatru, Chota Darra, and Batal to reach Kunjum La, the gateway to Spiti. The entire region was under a thick cover of snow. The colorful chortens of the Kunjum Devi temple were looking even more remarkable than usual in the midst of a complete white out.

The landscape morphed into a patchwork of fields and hamlets from Lossar onwards. We drove through an imposing gorge to reach a flat land that seemed like a landing strip for the ‘K-land’ – Kaza town, Ki village, Ki monastery, Kibber village, and Komic monastery.

After Kaza there is Dhankar monastery which was once the capital of Spiti. From here we went to Tabo and its ancient monastery, and then to the monastery at Gyu that houses the mummy of a Lama.

The Spiti loop gets closest to China at Sumdo. Next major village was Nako which is famous for its lake. From here we descended towards Kinnaur district to the other end of the Spiti loop at Shimla.

I found this track far more challenging than the Manali-Leh highway. It is this challenge of going beyond limits in pursuit of exotic beauty that draws adventurous souls to the trans-Himalayan regions. It is about the struggle and its rewards. In that sense such a travel is special because it is as much about the mountains as it is about oneself. It is not the typical disconnect of a city dweller taking a break in the hills. It is the connect with the untamed heights where a free soul seems to belong.

For detailed travelogue and photographs: write to travels@fluidverve.com

We are on a long weekend right now and I’ve been cooking twice a day. Hence it’s natural that I am thinking of the food that I’ve relished through my travels. The plate is loaded with food from road side eateries to heritage resorts; each one with its unique flavor.

I begin with the home town – Delhi and from there go with the flow of salvia. Can’t help it! These are mouthwatering memories.

The first thing that comes to mind is the tea stall behind Gopaldas Towers, Barakhamba road. This is the time to be here – winters (you would relish it in rainy weather too) and sip ginger tea as you devour bread pakore dipped in coriander chutney (sauce). However, the best chutney that I’ve had so far was at the roadside joint in Khajuraho, right opposite the main temple complex. The eatery offers fried snacks, poha and of course ginger tea. The essential accompaniment i.e. the chutney was made up of some wild fruit. The vendor generously gave us the fruit, picked personally for commercial consumption, gifted to us as a perishable souvenir that we could churn into a condiment for the folks back home. Alas! We city dwellers couldn’t produce it before deadline. By the way the poha (made from rice) from the same stall was delicious too.

The wild sauce was soon followed by yet another spicy condiment made out of guava – this was at an alloo-tikki (potato snack) stall in Orcha. Imagine…guava! Reminds me of my grandmother who had a knack for turning all edible things into pickle, from groundnuts to bitter gourd!

During the short stay in Orcha, the chat routine was followed by a full meal and pineapple yogurt, which I would never even have tasted if it wasn’t so actively endorsed. Before this we were in..? Oh Yes…Khajuraho.

Khajuraho offers a wide choice of cuisines. Of what I had, some Italian and continental preparations were the best, devoured at one of the rooftop restaurants while the eyes soak in the simple streets and the intricate temples of Khajuraho.

That takes me to the street side window seat of Gesmo in Leh, and the bakeries. Bakeries in Manali are equally awesome, especially the ones in Old Manali. During my last visit, I was treated to some of the most scrumptious and innovative sandwiches, which the vendor would make in a most indulgent and warm manner. Most of these bakeries promote themselves as either Italian or German, catering to the foreign tourist that flood in – for mountains or for cheap hash. The inclined streets of old Manali are lined up with artifact shops, bakeries, and cafés. The most relished cuppa coffee that I’ve had till now was at one of these cozy-lazy joints. They put sheets of paper and a pot of crayons on each table for patrons so that one can doodle away while they brew or bake the order. The walls are of course covered with creativity and the order never arrives before half an hour, which is more or less an average in cafés around here. I am just thinking if I would find my artwork pasted on the wall when I visit next. 

Now contrast the easy paced eating experience to the fast service at a highway dhaba in the midst of fields in Ropar, Punjab. Yummy food, especially the dal fry and paneer bhurji, along with a glass of lassi to drown it all down. In fact the food is so soaked that you need not bother for paper tissues, you would need a soap to wash off the oil from your hands. But, who is complaining? Not me. The luncheon was accompanied by someone’s relentless, so much in your face humorous stories and a few ducks from a nearby swamp roaming freely in and out of the hotel. Our next stop was at Chandigarh for ice creams and then at Haveli restaurant on the highway for jalebi & pakore. Perhaps no one was in a mood to return home. Life is a highway and I am gonna ride it… hmmm… 

Highways have so many wonderful eateries, be it in Punjab or Kerala, Madhya Pradesh or Uttar Pradesh. In U.P. I ate the best ever paalak paneer. This was at a restaurant in Moradabad. In Haryana, Pehlwan’s paranthe, near Murthal never disappoint. 

Then there was the best ever south Indian meal at the Maruthi restaurant at Theni, Tamil Nadu – almost bordering with Kerala. The owner served us warmly and made sure that we had tasted all the dishes on a fully loaded thali, topping it up every now & then. After a brief halt at Munnar (dal vada + masala tea/ginger tea/cardamom tea from a van converted into a snack shop), we reached the backwaters of Kerala. There in Kumarkom, we were treated to warm and home-like hospitality at Kodianthara. They made sure that we were fed all the homemade authentic Keralite delicacies – several times a day. 

And how can I not burp over Rajasthan! The menu is loaded with spicy snacks – Gol gappe (water balls) & namkeen of Jaipur; mirchi pakore, kachori, bhujia, and rasgulle of Bikaner; and a delicious meal of ker-sangari and besan-gatte of Jaisalmer. 

All too slurpilicious! 

And, it’s about time now to cook the next meal-Sarsoon ka saag! 

Bon Appétit!

For scrumptious travelogues and photographs: write to travels@fluidverve.com